During our home build, we originally planned to have this basement kitchen area finished. But, decision fatigue is real and this was an area we knew we could put on the back burner and finish later. “Later” ended up being only a few months because, it turns out, I don’t like things unfinished! Not a surprise to those who know me. So, I made a plan and got to work!
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Choosing Cabinets
Once I admitted that the idea of building all of the cabinets myself felt overwhelming, my husband and I decided to buy unfinished, pre-made cabinets. After comparing the options at multiple big box stores, we decided on Lowe’s cabinets for this project. These cabinets come in a variety of sizes, so I measured the space and determined what sizes I needed. My space did require some filler pieces, which you can make yourself or buy.
These pre-made cabinets are made of particle board sides with oak face frames and doors. The interiors are finished, although there are no shelves in the base cabinets. I’m often asked if I’d recommend these and my answer is that it depends on the space. I think in a pantry, laundry room, office, etc. they’re a good, affordable, DIY friendly option. I’m not sure I’d use them in a main kitchen, as the quality may not withstand heavy daily use. For this space though, they work well and look nice.
Installing the Cabinets
For installing the cabinets, you’ll want a good drill and driver, a level, shims, a stud finder, and screws (these are my favorite). I started by doing a dry-fit. I set all the cabinets in place, centered the sink base, etc. I also removed the doors and drawers, making them easier to handle. Then I moved them out again so I could work one at a time. I opted to start on an end, rather than the center, you do what you think is best. I marked my studs and began with the tall pantry cabinets. Thanks to my dry-fit, I knew to leave them a couple of inches off the side wall to allow for filler, in order for everything to line up.
I used screws to attach the cabinets to the studs on the back wall. If these had fit tight against the side wall, I’d have added screws there, too. Shim as needed! I also used screws to attach the face frames, this will keep them aligned and secure. The PowerPro screws don’t require pre-drilling, so I don’t when I’m screwing into studs. However, with hard oak, I always recommend it. So, when attaching the face frames, pre-drill.
I worked my way down the back wall until they were all installed, nice and level. Next, I started on the island. Once again, I dry-fit everything and marked the floor where cabinets would go. I framed up a half wall that I attached to the floor (I went through the grout lines into the concrete using concrete screws) to give me something to secure the cabinets to. Don’t worry, those studs will all be hidden by the time I’m done!
Building a Custom Cabinet
I purchased a small cabinet for above the refrigerator, but I decided I wanted to fully enclose it, instead. I wanted to balance the tall pantry cabinets and make this look as custom as possible. So, I took the doors off the pre-made cabinet and DIY’ed the rest of it. I used 3/4″ birch plywood assembled it with pocket holes. This is a very beginner friendly method that works well.
I allowed plenty of room off the left wall for the refrigerator doors to open and just made my own filler pieces to cover that gap. Enclosing the refrigerator really adds to the custom look, so this was definitely worth the extra work.
Customizing the Island
To make the island more custom, I first needed to cover up the framing, so I screwed a piece of 3/4″ plywood into the studs. Using 3/4″ material here also helped make this sturdier, but you could also get away with 1/2″. The sides of the cabinets are particle board and not meant to be finished, so I covered them with 1/4″ plywood that I glued and nailed in place.
Next, I added detail with 1×4 boards, giving it a board and batten look. I glued and nailed these boards in place, as well as a baseboard around the sides and back of the island.
Knowing that I wanted seating on three sides, I needed to add some legs and supports for the future countertop. For this, I used oak 4×4 posts and connected them with 1×4 boards (aprons) that I pocket holed into the posts and island sides. To add some dimension to the posts, I cut and attached 1×4 trim to the top and bottom of each post.
